KODAK RAPID SELENIUM TONER PDF

Kodak Selenium Toner is a brown toner for black and white papers. Selenium Toner creates a variety of cool brown tones. Selenium Toner increases th. As has probably become obvious, I am speaking of the Kodak product, which they call ‘Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner’, or KRST. Selenium toners by other. KODAK PROFESSIONAL Rapid Selenium Toner. Produces several cool chocolate-brown hues with warm-tone papers, purplish brown tones with neutral- tone.

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Film, Paper, Chemistry ‘ started by JarvmanMay 20, May 20, 1.

Just got a bottle of it today. I haven’t ever used it before and have now read about hypo clearing agent to remove the residue after but haven’t got any. Is this totally necessary? I want my prints to go slightly browner perhaps but not purple, what selsnium would you reccomend.

I don’t want a severe colour change. May 20, 2.

May 20, 3. Ah cheers, I see now reading the instructions that it’s used in print preperation not after and they’ve been washed for long enough. May 20, 4. HCA is also used by many of us as a wash aid afterwards. I found it reduced that chance of staining but a proper washing should do that, too.

Final color of the print will depend on many factors For example, if a hardening fix is used, the RST acts a little slower. Some color change is possible after removing the print from the toner, as the toning continues a short while after removal from the toner. With Ilford gallery, I could soak the print in the RST for an extended time with very little color change, but with an appearant contrast increase as the blacks got richer May 20, 5.

Hi You may use sodium sulfite instead of Hypowash as an after bath. May 21, 6. Yes, there are people who mix HCA into the selenium toner. I’m not one of them. KRST is expensive to buy, but will last a long time if you don’t alter it with anything other than water.

Kodak Selenium Toner. what color does it tone ? | Photography Forums

Adding sodium sulfite to the toner makes it go bad quickly, and you wind up throwing what would otherwise be perfectly good toner down the drain. I’m better served by making sure my prints have been thoroughly washed beforehand.

I have a working jug of selenium toner for a long time. I filter out the sludge once in a while usually when I can’t bear to look at it any longer koda replenish when it begins to weaken. Who knows what my jug is like at this point. That depends mostly on the paper and the time. Since you do this by inspection under white light, the process is easy to control.

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Some papers, like Ilford’s MGIV, don’t change color at all; but their warmtone papers change dramatically. I have some Forte Polywarmtone that will go red if I leave it in the toner long enough. May 21, 7. I strongly second the above post.

Kodak Selenium Toner 946ml

It is false economy to mix HCA with selenium toner since it exhausts much, much faster than the toner. It is also uneconomical and environmentally irresponsible to dump selenium toner fapid all. Do what many other of us do: Keep a jug or two of toner in working strength and never toss it.

I replenish by adding a few splashes of concentrate from the bottle when toning times become to long. Filter out the inevitable sludge that forms with coffee filters or paper towels in a funnel. I have two jugs, one “strong” probably about 1: As Frank mentioned above, the type of paper and the way it was developed, as well as the desired tone, determine the toning times. Most of us tone by inspection, and pull the print when the proper tone change has been reached. My work flow is as follows: I usually give prints only the first fix when printing.

I then wash and dry them and save them for a toning session later. My toning set-up consists of a water soak tray, the second fix. Prints are soaked for five minutes minimum usually a stack of 12 goes in at once, i. Fix 2 for the proper time depending on fixer and strength. Transfer a print from the directly from the second fix to the toning tray NO rinse between if you want to avoid mottling or spots. Tone until the desired tone is reached. Normally, I have a duplicate print sitting in the soaking tray for comparison.

When toning is complete, transfer the print, without rinse, to the wash-aid tray. I have lengthened the time prints stay in the wash aid to 10 minutes after reading and studying information from Kodak and Ilford this is more than the Kodak recommended roner.

Transfer the print to the water holding tray. When all 12 are there, I load them into the washer and start over. Usually, but the time I have toned another batch, the first batch is ready to come out of the washer. This can be speeded up by having prints in different trays simultaneously. For example, if the toning time for a particular print is 5 minutes, and I have a number of them, I will transfer another to the fix at three minutes 2 minutes is my fixing time for the second bath.

Kodai I have prints in the fix, toner and wash aid at the same time. One seleniumm also do prints in batches. For me, interleaving three or four big prints with gloves on is enough.

BTW, do wear tpner or use tongs with the selenium toner. The risks are minimal without, but better safe than sorry Hope this helps some, Best Doremus Scudder www. May 21, 8. There are many ways to do it.

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I will usually wash an untoned print to completion and let it dry before I tone it, if I want a healthy change in color. That way I know what the true starting point is, and exactly what effect the toner is having.

When I am doing this “blanket” Selenium toning, at high dilutions like 1: Now, the order of the toner and the HCA might be wrong you will have to ask someone more knowledgeable on the chemistry of itand all those 5 min. The color will depend mostly on the paper, and also on the dilution. It is one of the two main darkroom chemicals that is hazardous, and illegal to dump down the drain, according to Kodak the other being fixer.

Drop the spent toner off at a hazmat collection site. The fixer can be dumped legally after filtering with steel wool. May 21, 9. May 21, First part of the toning just increase the contrast as will do selenium toning and then it changes in tone.

Oh shit, well i’ve already fixed these for 5 mins and i’ve just mixed up a new full strength batch of fix to do em again for a further 5.

Will this be any harm? I’m rapod fotospeed lith prints and don’t want them to loose their bleached bone colour. This was toning for 3 mins at 1: What would you suggest? So if you’re fixer timing is 5 minutes you should give 2.

For sure if 1: But if I’m leaving the prints to dry before the toning sesh is 2. I’ll be leaving them unproperly fixed for too long won’t I?

It’s really hard to over fix a print. Worst thing that happens is it might take a little longer to wash the print. I suppose if you left the print in the fixer for a few hours, that might be a problem.

Kodak Toner for Black & White Print – Rapid Selenium

A few extra minutes means nothing. There is no need for you to refix the prints you’ve already made. Next time use the two fixing bath method if you like. I’ve never found it particularly useful myself. Heck, I’ve dug out some really old prints rapi I made as a teenager 40 years ago and they look ok. They’re not yellow nor are they faded. I was not particularly careful about selemium at the time either. May 22, Fixer 1 and 2 at different times As mentioned above, I routinely give only the first fix, wash and dry my prints and then give the second fix at a later date when toning.